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08 Nov 2024 - 02:35 am

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In the Middle East, coffee isn’t a grab-and-go drink used to wake up with, but a social exchange. While coffee beans originated in Ethiopia, the earliest evidence of cultivation appeared in Yemen through trading across the Red Sea.
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The practice followed into the early 20th century and across the world, when the first wave of Middle Eastern immigrants came to Detroit to work in the auto industry or shipping yards, Howell said. Most immigrants were men who migrated alone, so one of the first institutions they created were coffee houses where they would gather to socialize, share news about their home country, and even write letters back home. Many of the initial mosques in the area were originally established in the backs of the coffee houses.
Yemeni men working in shipping on the Great Lakes “would work for months at a time and then have a few weeks off and then work again,” leaving them unable to visit their families back in Yemen, Howell said. “The coffee houses in the Detroit area were a really important institution.”

“Our mission is to bring everyone in one place and share history,” Ibrahim Alhasbani, founder of the first contemporary Yemeni coffee chain Qahwah House, told CNN. “That’s why we serve the coffee in a pot. People come inside the store and they share one pot and they can talk and they share different stories.”

A new chapter for Yemeni coffee
Contemporary chains are designed by a new demographic — the descendants of these immigrants who are bringing Yemeni coffee culture to the American mainstream.

The very first Qahwah Houses in Dearborn were airy and upscale, a familiar setting to patrons of established coffee chains. But they also brought with them Yemeni culture, with coffee beans imported from local farmers, artifacts from the region and the founder’s family tree on the wall.

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During the day, Yemeni coffeehouses function similar to many neighborhood spots. Patrons host meetings, college students study and others pop in for a quick cup to-go.
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But at night, they serve as de-facto living rooms, especially for young Muslims who don’t go to clubs and bar. From New York to Dallas, especially during the late nights of Ramadan, the crowd overflows into the street and you often have to yell to be heard inside. Some young Muslims even venture to the coffee shops in hopes of finding a life partner.

Nowhere is this coffeehouse culture more pronounced, and celebrated, than in Dearborn, Michigan, a suburb of Detroit and home to one of the largest Arab American communities in the United States.

Downtown Dearborn is peppered with different Yemeni coffee houses, which Howell said helped revitalize the Detroit area after the city became the largest municipality go to bankrupt in 2013. And it’s only growing.

“It’s become sort of contagious,” Howell said. “Several Yemeni entrepreneurs are opening coffee houses of their own, each with its own sort of style and atmosphere.”

The coffee chains have big ambitions beyond Dearborn. Qahwah House hopes to open another 20 to 30 locations in the next year, spanning across 12 states and Canada, Alhasbani said. They are also licensed out, but Alhasbani says he sets a high standard before agreeing to let anyone open a shop.

“We have too many people that come (asking me) they want to open. I have more than 10 different requests a day just to open this kind of business,” he said. “We don’t give anyone license until we make sure the person has the love for the brand and his mind and his heart in the Qahwah House.”
Another authentic Yemeni coffee chain, Haraz, also sees crowds of people throughout the day and night. They opened their first location in New York City last week — less than half a mile away from Qahwah House’s downtown Manhattan shop — and the franchisees plan to grow.